服裝(zhuang)加(jia)工(gong)廠(chang)加(jia)工(gong)一件(jian)衣服，其(qi)中裝(zhuang)飾(shi)工(gong)藝是非(fei)常重要(yao)的，今天(tian)我(wo)們(men)就一起簡單(dan)學(xue)習一下 裝(zhuang)飾(shi)工(gong)藝。

　　裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)工(gong)(gong)(gong)藝(yi)(yi)就(jiu)是起裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)點綴作用(yong)的服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)加工(gong)(gong)(gong)工(gong)(gong)(gong)藝(yi)(yi)，原多(duo)用(yong)手工(gong)(gong)(gong)。具有(you)(you)技藝(yi)(yi)專業、風(feng)格(ge)獨特(te)、歷史悠(you)久的特(te)點。用(yong)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)工(gong)(gong)(gong)藝(yi)(yi)制(zhi)作的服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)，被視(shi)為精美(mei)的藝(yi)(yi)術品。中華人民共和國(guo)建立(li)后，這些傳統(tong)工(gong)(gong)(gong)藝(yi)(yi)得到繼(ji)承和發揚。加工(gong)(gong)(gong)方面(mian)除創(chuang)制(zhi)諸如鑲(xiang)、嵌、滾、蕩(dang)、盤、繡(xiu)(xiu)等專用(yong)小(xiao)工(gong)(gong)(gong)具外，還發展(zhan)到使用(yong)機(ji)器(qi)，常用(yong)的設(she)備(bei)有(you)(you)繡(xiu)(xiu)花(hua)機(ji)、高頻軋花(hua)機(ji)、絎花(hua)機(ji)以(yi)及各種多(duo)功能裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)縫紉機(ji)。先進的電腦繡(xiu)(xiu)花(hua)機(ji)，采(cai)用(yong)九色彩繡(xiu)(xiu)，24個機(ji)頭同步工(gong)(gong)(gong)作，并配有(you)(you)二針到二十五(wu)針機(ji)的10多(duo)種裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)機(ji)，可在織物上創(chuang)造出復雜的美(mei)術圖案。裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)工(gong)(gong)(gong)藝(yi)(yi)有(you)(you)傳統(tong)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)、花(hua)式裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)、特(te)藝(yi)(yi)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)3種。

　　傳統裝飾

　　主要指(zhi)傳統的(de)鑲(xiang)(xiang)、嵌(qian)(qian)、滾(gun)(也(ye)稱(cheng)(cheng)緄)、蕩(dang)、盤(pan)(pan)。①鑲(xiang)(xiang)：將(jiang)異(yi)色(se)(se)或異(yi)質的(de)布料(liao)，以(yi)鑲(xiang)(xiang)邊(bian)、鑲(xiang)(xiang)條(tiao)、鑲(xiang)(xiang)色(se)(se)的(de)形式(shi)組(zu)(zu)成(cheng)不同韻味(wei)的(de)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)整體。②嵌(qian)(qian)：在兩(liang)層(ceng)織(zhi)物中間裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)上(shang)嵌(qian)(qian)線。嵌(qian)(qian)線按(an)部位(wei)(wei)有(you)外嵌(qian)(qian)、里嵌(qian)(qian)，按(an)形狀(zhuang)有(you)扁嵌(qian)(qian)、圓(yuan)嵌(qian)(qian)(嵌(qian)(qian)條(tiao)內加細(xi)(xi)繩(sheng))。③滾(gun)：按(an)材料(liao)經(jing)緯方向取45°條(tiao)狀(zhuang)斜料(liao)將(jiang)衣片(pian)邊(bian)緣包實(shi)、包光(guang)。是處(chu)理(li)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)邊(bian)緣的(de)常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾方法。種類(lei)有(you)細(xi)(xi)香滾(gun)、狹(xia)滾(gun)、闊滾(gun)、單(dan)(dan)滾(gun)、雙(shuang)滾(gun);或按(an)緝(ji)(ji)縫的(de)層(ceng)次有(you)二層(ceng)滾(gun)、三層(ceng)滾(gun)、四層(ceng)滾(gun)(俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)皮頭滾(gun))。滾(gun)和嵌(qian)(qian)常組(zu)(zu)合使用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)，給人以(yi)精致、華貴的(de)美感，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)衣襟、領、領口(kou)、底(di)邊(bian)、衩口(kou)等部位(wei)(wei)。④蕩(dang)：俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)蕩(dang)條(tiao)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)異(yi)料(liao)懸緝(ji)(ji)在衣片(pian)某(mou)部位(wei)(wei)呈(cheng)條(tiao)狀(zhuang)的(de)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾形式(shi)。有(you)單(dan)(dan)層(ceng)蕩(dang)、雙(shuang)層(ceng)蕩(dang)、單(dan)(dan)邊(bian)明線蕩(dang)、狹(xia)蕩(dang)、闊蕩(dang)、單(dan)(dan)蕩(dang)、雙(shuang)蕩(dang)、一滾(gun)一蕩(dang)、一滾(gun)二蕩(dang)。多用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)女(nv)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)、童裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾，有(you)樸(pu)實(shi)、高雅(ya)、別具一格的(de)特點(dian)。⑤盤(pan)(pan)：用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)織(zhi)物或絲繩(sheng)制成(cheng)的(de)紐襻(pan)(pan)條(tiao)，盤(pan)(pan)成(cheng)各(ge)(ge)種花(hua)(hua)(hua)型(xing)。分盤(pan)(pan)花(hua)(hua)(hua)、盤(pan)(pan)紐兩(liang)種。盤(pan)(pan)花(hua)(hua)(hua)是將(jiang)紐襻(pan)(pan)條(tiao)彎曲成(cheng)各(ge)(ge)種花(hua)(hua)(hua)卉圖案，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)領口(kou)、前胸、擺縫等部位(wei)(wei)的(de)扣合或裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾，產生虛中有(you)實(shi)的(de)藝術效果，是高檔服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)精致裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾。盤(pan)(pan)紐是用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)紐襻(pan)(pan)條(tiao)盤(pan)(pan)曲成(cheng)各(ge)(ge)種花(hua)(hua)(hua)色(se)(se)紐扣。有(you)空心(xin)花(hua)(hua)(hua)紐、實(shi)心(xin)花(hua)(hua)(hua)紐、雙(shuang)色(se)(se)花(hua)(hua)(hua)紐等 3種。題材豐富，內涵深刻，如“福、祿、壽”、“壽桃”、花(hua)(hua)(hua)卉、動(dong)物等各(ge)(ge)種象形花(hua)(hua)(hua)紐，具有(you)濃郁民族特色(se)(se)。

　　花式裝飾

　　主要指在服裝(zhuang)上增設荷葉邊、穗(sui)墜、包紐、絨球、穿繩等(deng)附件(jian)，或(huo)進行(xing)緝線、緝花、抽褶、打(da)裥等(deng)。

　　特藝裝飾

　　在服裝上運用(yong)特(te)殊技藝顯(xian)示裝飾(shi)效果。繡花、手(shou)繪、蠟(la)染(ran)、扎染(ran)等是常用(yong)的特(te)藝裝飾(shi)手(shou)法。