縫(feng)紉(ren)就(jiu)是把衣(yi)片(pian)縫(feng)合(he)成服裝的工(gong)(gong)藝。可(ke)分為手(shou)縫(feng)工(gong)(gong)藝、機(ji)縫(feng)工(gong)(gong)藝、特殊工(gong)(gong)藝等。

　　手縫工藝

　　采用(yong)手(shou)針(zhen)(zhen)進(jin)行(xing)縫(feng)(feng)制的工(gong)藝。是中(zhong)(zhong)國的傳統手(shou)工(gong)技藝。很(hen)多(duo)針(zhen)(zhen)法及其作用(yong)尚不能用(yong)現代(dai)縫(feng)(feng)紉機替代(dai)。具有(you)線跡精細(xi)、平(ping)整，針(zhen)(zhen)法豐富(fu)等(deng)(deng)特點，被譽為高檔工(gong)藝。　手(shou)縫(feng)(feng)工(gong)藝的主要工(gong)具是手(shou)縫(feng)(feng)針(zhen)(zhen)和頂針(zhen)(zhen)箍。絲綢等(deng)(deng)纖維(wei)較細(xi)的織物(wu)宜用(yong)7～9號針(zhen)(zhen);鎖眼釘紐宜用(yong)4～5號針(zhen)(zhen)，一般(ban)毛(mao)料則用(yong)粗細(xi)適中(zhong)(zhong)的6～8號針(zhen)(zhen)。

　　機縫工藝

　　采用(yong)(yong)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)紉(ren)機進行縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)制的(de)(de)(de)工(gong)藝(yi)。具有(you)(you)針(zhen)跡(ji)(ji)整齊、工(gong)效高(gao)等優點。常用(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)機縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)工(gong)藝(yi)有(you)(you)以下(xia)幾種。①合(he)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(含兜縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng));將衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)組合(he)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)暗縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)組合(he)或(huo)袋蓋(gai)、衣(yi)(yi)(yi)領、袖頭(tou)(tou)等三(san)邊(bian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合(he)的(de)(de)(de)翻轉(zhuan)部(bu)(bu)件(jian)。②包(bao)(bao)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：以一(yi)層(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)邊(bian)包(bao)(bao)住(zhu)(zhu)另(ling)一(yi)層(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)邊(bian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)，再(zai)作第(di)二或(huo)第(di)三(san)次縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。有(you)(you)明(ming)包(bao)(bao)，暗包(bao)(bao)之(zhi)別。一(yi)般用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)布(bu)(bu)(bu)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)不(bu)鎖邊(bian)的(de)(de)(de)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)。③咬縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：由上下(xia)層(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)咬住(zhu)(zhu)中間(jian)一(yi)層(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)，正面緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)明(ming)線(xian)(xian)(xian)。用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)袖頭(tou)(tou)、腰(yao)頭(tou)(tou)等。④騎縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)織物(wu)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)銜(xian)接(jie)(不(bu)疊起)，在銜(xian)接(jie)處(chu)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)W狀(zhuang)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)，使(shi)兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)布(bu)(bu)(bu)互(hu)相(xiang)牽(qian)牢。一(yi)般用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)高(gao)檔服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)襯布(bu)(bu)(bu)拼(pin)接(jie)和收顙。⑤平接(jie)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)織物(wu)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)拼(pin)接(jie)，互(hu)為銜(xian)接(jie)補充。用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)接(jie)長衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)部(bu)(bu)件(jian)等。⑥平疊縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)織物(wu)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)重(zhong)疊，居中縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)襯布(bu)(bu)(bu)拼(pin)接(jie)和收顙等。⑦來(lai)去縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：將兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)疊合(he)，先沿毛(mao)(mao)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)正面緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)狹(xia)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(3cm)再(zai)在反面緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)闊縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(約(yue)7cm)。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)單衣(yi)(yi)(yi)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合(he)。⑧分(fen)(fen)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)(liang)層(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)疊合(he)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)，縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)分(fen)(fen)開，兩(liang)(liang)邊(bian)各緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)一(yi)道明(ming)線(xian)(xian)(xian)。常用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)不(bu)易折(zhe)轉(zhuan)的(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)料(如(ru)皮革)或(huo)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)等。⑨坐緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合(he)，縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)傾(qing)倒，正面作第(di)二次縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。常用(yong)(yong)作固(gu)(gu)定縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)或(huo)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)。⑩分(fen)(fen)坐緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：兩(liang)(liang)塊(kuai)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)先合(he)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)，將緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)傾(qing)倒縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)分(fen)(fen)開，在分(fen)(fen)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)上緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)一(yi)道明(ming)線(xian)(xian)(xian)。服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)加工(gong)中多(duo)用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)布(bu)(bu)(bu)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)前(qian)袖縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、褲襠縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、后縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)等。壓緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(悶緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng))：上層(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)折(zhe)光，覆蓋(gai)下(xia)層(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)，一(yi)次縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)成(cheng)型(xing)(xing)。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)前(qian)后過肩或(huo)呈(cheng)圓弧型(xing)(xing)、尖(jian)角型(xing)(xing)等部(bu)(bu)件(jian)的(de)(de)(de)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)接(jie)。漏落(luo)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)：明(ming)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)線(xian)(xian)(xian)漏落(luo)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)分(fen)(fen)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)槽內或(huo)緊挨坐縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)邊(bian)沿，既能使(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)暗藏，又能固(gu)(gu)定下(xia)層(ceng)(ceng)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)。常用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)腰(yao)頭(tou)(tou)、里(li)(li)襟(jin)等。卷(juan)(juan)邊(bian)：用(yong)(yong)卷(juan)(juan)邊(bian)壓腳或(huo)用(yong)(yong)手指(zhi)將衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)毛(mao)(mao)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)卷(juan)(juan)光。常用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)單衣(yi)(yi)(yi)或(huo)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)里(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)下(xia)口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)邊(bian)。倒回針(zhen)：在原線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)上往(wang)返縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。用(yong)(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)緝(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)的(de)(de)(de)始(shi)末加固(gu)(gu)，裝(zhuang)(zhuang)封口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)，叉封口(kou)(kou)(kou)(kou)，裝(zhuang)(zhuang)帶襻等。

　　現代(dai)服裝加工(gong)的主(zhu)要機(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)設備，除高速平(ping)縫(feng)縫(feng)紉機(ji)(ji)(ji)(簡稱平(ping)縫(feng)機(ji)(ji)(ji))外，還有(you)多(duo)針多(duo)線包(bao)縫(feng)縫(feng)紉機(ji)(ji)(ji)(簡稱包(bao)縫(feng)機(ji)(ji)(ji))以(yi)及取代(dai)手工(gong)的開袋、鎖眼、釘扣、扎駁、復襯(chen)(衣面與衣襯(chen)組合)、裝袖、裝褲腰、打褶(zhe)等(deng)各種專用單(dan)機(ji)(ji)(ji)，并有(you)多(duo)功能自動調(diao)速固體電(dian)(dian)路(lu)電(dian)(dian)子(zi)縫(feng)紉機(ji)(ji)(ji)問世(shi)。20世(shi)紀80年代(dai)，較先進的機(ji)(ji)(ji)縫(feng)設備是(shi)自動縫(feng)紉系統，采用工(gong)業(ye)攝(she)像機(ji)(ji)(ji)和電(dian)(dian)子(zi)計算(suan)機(ji)(ji)(ji)監控(kong)，能自動識別裁片的樣式，傳送并進行自動分類控(kong)制(zhi)。